July 18: Hellesylt-Geiranger (ferry)
We woke up to low-hanging fog but an otherwise nice morning
and got ourselves packed up for the ferry ride. We had pre-booked the 9:30
ferry (it seems to be a good idea to book in advance, especially for cars, but
even for passengers!) and lucked out with quite good weather for the 1.5 hour
ride through the fjord. We stayed on the middle deck to avoid the crowds, and
walked back and forth between the port and starboard sides in order to take in
all of the views. Even if one might argue that Geiranger gets too much
attention as a tourist destination in Norway, it is really and truly an
amazingly beautiful area. The mountains fall so steeply into the water that it
almost seems natural that deep-drafted ships can pass through. There is a curve
in the fjord as well, so the boat trip allows you to constantly see new things.
One of the most surprising sights was the farm at the top of
a cliff which is only reachable by ladder, yet at one point had 3-4 horses and
six cows. On the opposite side, there was a farmhouse where the kids were
harnessed to keep them from falling down the cliff.
When we arrived at Geiranger, we cycled up to Fossen Camping
(where we are staying), up a few switchbacks and close to a waterfall. After
leaving the bikes by the reception, we set off for some hiking. We followed
paths and a gravel road to Vesterås gård, and then walked among the grazing
goats toward Løsta. Finding the path closed due to a rockslide, we changed our
destination to an alternative lookout point (Vesteråsfjellet), which gave a
nice view of the inner part of the fjord and of the town. On the way back, we
stopped at Vesterås for waffles and made a dinner reservation to celebrate the
acceptance of Dražen’s first journal article. Instead of walking directly back
to the cabin, we took a detour to Hole, the marshland above Hole, and
Flydalsjuvet. Although Flydalsjuvet is among the most well-known lookout
points, we found that some of the spots along the trail (where we didn’t see
any other people) were actually much nicer than the crowded spot next to the
road.
We checked into the pre-booked cabin (a bit more luxurious
than we need, but – wow – what a view!) and took a short break there before going
on another hike. This time, we walked up to Storsæterfossen, under the
waterfall, and up a bit further toward Vesteråssætra. The sun was shining, and
I just kept marveling at our luck with the weather and the natural beauty of
our surroudings. We topped off an incredible day with a delicious dinner and a
sunny walk back to the cabin.
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| Not just a tourist ferry, it's also the mail boat. |
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| The Suitor waterfall |












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