This is the start of a few posts recounting a trip to New Zealand that I took together with a friend and colleague. The main part of the trip was 3 weeks of cycling on the South Island (1300 km), bookended by a few days in Auckland with Sandrine and family. The daily entries are copied from the journal that we kept together, but I did most of the writing (so "I" refers to me throughout this). A map of the route can be found here.

December 30

We took the 9:30 ferry from Devonport to Rangitoto, the volcanic island that can be seen from anywhere in Auckland, and then walked on the island during the day. The summit climb was fairly short and the most popular. The view from there is worthwhile, but the side trails we took were more incredible. The coastal path was particularly nice, and takes less time than is marked on the signs.

 Rangitoto ferry terminal.

View from the summit.

 Coastal path.

Volcanic rock.

More rock!

 Devonport.

December 31

We drove to the West coast of the North Island. The first stop was Piha Beach – with Lion’s Rock and fantastic waves for body surfing. After some sandwiches for lunch, we walked to the Kitekite waterfall. Another swim – fewer waves, but a strong shower! The trees/ferns on the path were beautiful – especially those that were previously used as path lights by the Maori people. Finally, we visited Karekare beach (where the Piano movie was filmed). We didn’t go swimming there, but we walk on the expansive dark sand beach, which is surrounded by steep green hills.

The gang with Piha in the background.

Piha beach.

More beach

Kitekite waterfall

From the trail to Kitekite

 Karekare beach

January 1

After a quiet morning at home with pancakes, we went on the coastal walk near Sandrine’s place. Birds, tidal flats, flowers, Erin tripping over her own feet, bamboo, a huge tree, and hot weather were the highlights. We then made our way to the city by bus. The Sky Tower was the first stop. The views were lovely, but probably not worth $28 per person. Big containerships and expensive yachts were visible, as well as Rangitoto and the hills beyond the city. After a stroll in Albert Park, we took a break for cold beverages and walked to the marina. We got to see the expensive yachts and sailboats, a few fishing vessels, a tugboat, a research vessel, and a mysterious non-ice-strengthened vessel named ARCTIC. We went to see an ugly yacht (Superyacht A), which necessitated a rather fast-paced walk to the bus.

Views through the window of the Sky Tower

Albert Park

January 2

The morning was taken up by the flight from Auckland to Christchurch: great views for the first 15 minutes, followed by cloud cover. After the flight and the walk to the bike store, we were met with the disappointing news that our trailer was missing and axle and that it was a public holiday, so we weren’t going to get too far. We picked up the bikes anyhow and packed our things onto them as best we could (poor Dražen had to wear the heavy backpack, while I loaded the rest onto the back of my bike) and made our way to a domain campsite called Tai Tapu. The route was flat, mostly suburbs, but the last stretch into the camp was quite pretty – farmland surrounded by nice hills. Speaking of farmland, the two jolly fellows hanging around the campsite were listening to enlightened forms of music: “You can bang anything that you find on the farm, but don’t touch your sister, she’s mine.”

(Bike shop to Tai Tapu: 24 km)

January 3

We woke up from a good sleep in windy Tai Tapu (our jolly inebriated friends did not stay the night, to our great relief). Our morning routine is not quite perfect yet, but we got on the road back to Christchurch after approximately 2 hours. A stop in town for gas tanks was followed by a return to the bike shop. The trailer axle was eventually obtained and we were on our way! Well, almost. First, we needed groceries.

By 12:45, though, we were really on our way! The beginning of the ride was characterized by traffic and a strong headwind in beating sun. Our progress was not fast. Things improved as we got farther along, though. The traffic quieted, the mountains came into view, and – every once in a while – the wind died down a little. We ended up in Glentunnel at the end of a long day. The price for camping was a little bit higher than last night, but the shower and kitchen were worth it.

Notable numbers:

1: Number of times anyone has fallen (Dražen, but he’s okay!)

3: number of times Erin got blown sideways off of the road

4-1: nosebleed count for the trip (Dražen-Erin)

(Tai Tapu to Glentunnel via bike shop: 78 km)

Ready to go, finally!

Typical view along the road.

January 4

A late night, with some unfortunate spilling of beverages inside the tent, was followed by a slow morning. We bought a few exorbitantly priced groceries in Glentunnel before heading out on a cloudy morning. In the absence of a headwind, we covered some ground pretty well – but then the headwind came back. It wasn’t quite as bad as yesterday, though.

We continued on over pastureland with a beautiful mountainous backdrop. Rakaia Gorge was probably the scenic highlight. The muddy waters rush through gorge, and I can’t begin to imagine the river’s full strength. We enjoyed a one hour walk to the lookout and back before starting our only tough uphill so far. I got a bit frustrated and stuck in the wrong gear, but we made it up eventually. What comes up must go down, so we also enjoy a straight, slightly downhill stretch (and we had a brief tailwind!).

Our day ended at Mt. Somers with fresh eggs for dinner. We also had the company of a German cycle-tourist on his way back toward Auckland on a 5-month trip.

The day’s silly wrong turns: Erin tries to go an extra 45 km to the wrong town for camping. Dražen tries to ride a bit on the grass for added resistance.

(Glentunnel to Mt. Somers: 61.3 km)

Descent to Rakaia Gorge

 Rakaia Gorge

January 5

A slow start today, but we eventually got ourselves on the road. 49 km of gentle downhill with a tailwind – not a bad way to get started! Geraldine felt like a major metropolis after the last few towns, so we did a major grocery haul.

The way out of Geraldine introduced a few hills and it was slow going, especially since Dražen got stuck with a very heavy trailer. The rolling hills and valleys were green and beautiful, though. A few tough moments occurred when the headwind picked up just as we were trying to climb…

We got through with only one chain slip and a few minor trailer capsizes at zero speed. The real catch came up when we were trying to find a place to camp. The picnic area at Happy/Beautiful Valley (the map and book disagree on the name) didn’t appeal to us, so we forged ahead, only to learn that there really was no domain camping at Skipton bridge.

A nice resident let us put up our tent in of his pastures, so we ended up really roughing it. Dražen bathed in the river before we enjoyed a cold dinner under a palm tree.

Health status: Erin’s cold is awful, but spirits are high.

(Mt. Somers to farmer’s field between Geraldine and Fairlie: roughly 80 km)