NZ trip part 3 (see previous posts!)

January 11

Today was a day for doing different things. To start with, we needed to get to the “station” downtown fairly early. We managed the morning routine quite well, and were even early! The rental car situation for our return to Auckland was updated while we were there.

At 9:20, we made our way onto a bus up the gorge where Dražen would take the plunge. A bumpy, winding ride took us to the Nevis bungee. A short cable car trip to the middle of the gorge was followed by us watching a few jumpers. Soon enough, it was Dražen’s turn. Even though he didn’t manage to jump headfirst (to my horror!), the guys on the other end of the line were able to correct his position. It seems as though he enjoyed the experience, anyhow!

After an equally bumpy ride back down, we made a call to arrange to go kayaking. We had an hour to eat and find the beach, and then we went on a guided kayak trip on Moke Lake with two American girls. The wind picked up as predicted, so the small lake seemed like a very wise choice in the end.

The lake is in a crescent shape and has very pretty tree-lined shores with mountains in the background. We paddled at a relaxed pace in our double kayak and enjoyed juice and cookies during a break. The sun was out all the while and it was a lovely trip.

Finally, we picked up a few baked goods, filled up our stomachs with pasta that we cooked yesterday and delicious doughnuts, and rode to Arrowtown (20 km away). The road after the turnoff is quite pleasant and it feels like a relief to be a little way away from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown.

(Queenstown to Arrowtown: 20 km)

The jumper!

The gorge where he jumped.

 Kayaking on Moke Lake.

January 12

We woke up to rain and took it as a cue to stay in bed for while longer. Once we could no longer delay the inevitable, we got ourselves up and going (with the help of a tree next to our tent for keeping things dry).

The first few kilometers out of Arrowtown were easy and flat (though wet). Once we started up the Crown Range pass, things were a little different. The first 2 km were a tough climb, followed by a few kilometers of easier climbing, followed by a really tough section. The rain was pounding, the views were nonexistent, but we managed to reach the highest highway in NZ! It was too rainy to really enjoy the accomplishment, but we stopped long enough to put on all of our clothes for the cold ride down.

We were both ready for a warm drink when we got to Caldrone, and the hotel there provided hot chocolate, muffins, and a warm fire.

We left the hotel ready for more rain, but the skies cleared and we had a sunny ride to Wanaka (beautiful but windy!) for groceries, and further to Lake Hawea where we are camping tonight. It’s pretty great to drink a beer in the moonlight after a hilly day on the bike.

(Arrowtown to Lake Hawea: 71 km)

 This is all we saw at the top of the highest highway in NZ.

The sun came out on the way down, though!

Windy Wanaka. 

January 13

It was a lazy morning in Lake Hawea. The sun was beautiful on the lake and we had a very nice ride out along the water. There seemed to be a large number of female cyclists going in the opposite direction – I don’t think we’ve ever gotten so many waves!

The rolling hills and headwind of Lake Hawea eventually gave way to the rolling hills and reduced wind of Lake Wanaka. Both lakes were gorgeous – perfectly blue with imposing mountains all around.

From Lake Wanaka, we continued to Makaroa (juice & cake break) and then into Mt. Aspiring National park. We got to ride through green forests, look at waterfalls, and see the impressive Gates of Haast. Even though it was a bit late in the day for my legs, the Haast Pass wasn’t all that bad!

We ended the day here at Pleasant Flat, which is pleasant in terms of price ($6 per person) and location (great view of a snowy peak), but less pleasant in terms of the sandflies.

Number of chain slips: 3-0 (Dražen’s first one was before we even left the campground)

(Lake Hawea to Pleasant Flat: 81 km)

Lake Hawea

Taking a break next to Lake Hawea.

Looking over toward Lake Wanaka.

One of the waterfalls at Mt. Aspiring National Park.

January 14

We set off from Pleasant Flat in a drizzle at around 9 am. The first part of the ride was a gentle downhill in dark green forests and along the Haast River.

A short walking break took us to the Roaring Billy waterfall. We say of group of cyclists with support headed the other way, but I think we had an easier day given the gradients and winds!

We continued along the wide riverbed all the way to Haast (lunch & grocery break). The winds across the bridge were impressive and was glad to have them helping us. We continued along the ocean in a completely new landscape – beach grasses, sand dunes, different trees… We did so at an amazing pace (due to the tailwind), which afforded us another walking break, in the dunes this time. The waves were crashing hard on the shore (which had tons of driftwood).

Our route took us over the three peaks of Knight’s Point, the day’s only real climb, and to Lake Moeraki, and finally to Lake Paringa. Unfortunately, there are sandflies here, but the quick dip in the lake at the end of the day still makes this one of my favorite campsites.

Weird creek names of the day: Chink, Swine, Dismal, Windbad, Random, Kiwi, Kea

(Pleasant Flat to Lake Paringa: 98 km)

Mountains and the Haast River. 

Cairn and waterfall

We've made it to the coast!

 And the coast is very windy.

View from Knight's Point.

Lake Moeraki

January 15

The fog sat on the lake when we woke up this morning, but it burned off fairly quickly. We rode in brilliant sunshine on flat roads, heading first to the coast (lunch at Bruce Bay) and then continuing up the coast and a bit inland.

Cloud cover rolled in over the course of the afternoon, but he had a very pleasant rainforest ride. Highlights included many creek crossings and meeting up with the cyclist we met at Lake Pukaki.

When we got close to Fox Glacier, we went up the glacier viewing road and took a 1.5 hour hike to the Chalet Lookout. There were a few questionable creek crossings and the actual viewpoint was pretty much washed away, but the cool dark forest and the sight of the glacier were definitely worth the trip.

We are staying in a cabin at Fox Glacier and hoping for decent hiking tomorrow.

Notable morning events: Drazen is wide awake at 5:30 am and Erin’s chain slips before leaving the campground (karma…)

(Lake Paringa to Fox Glacier: 70 km)

Cairn at the beach at Bruce Bay

Snowy mountains in the background

 Glacier viewing road

Fox Glacier