Hjerkinn - Bergen Part 6

July 20th: Finse - Hallingskeid (21 km) + 10 km hiking

We woke up to glorious sun and another generous breakfast, so the day was off to a good start. During dinner last night, we had established that Aaron hadn’t seen a glacier before, so we decided to add in a hike. Once he picked up his bike, we all rode a few km to where the trail to Remsedalen meets Rallarvegen, then began to walk toward Remsedalen. We got to cross over a few more swinging bridges on our way toward to the snow. We weren’t on the most impressive tongue, but got to see snowfields and some impressive cracks. The walk was really lovely and a nice way to start the trip.
 

We continued about 10km from there to Fagernut, the highest point on Rallarvegen, and made a lunch stop near the cafe there. The train is in a 10km tunnel for much of what we cycled today. The gravel is much rougher, so it was necessary for me to hand over to trailer to Dražen before heading downhill. We even crossed one little patch of remaining snow (there is actually very little this year compared to normal - August is typically better for this trail).

The road to Hallingskeid is still pretty rough after the snowmelt, so there was more walking than usual, but we just took our time and enjoyed the scenery. The evening’s main activity has been a cooking bonanza - and just generally chilling out next to the river. We made some delicious (though deformed) pancakes which were extra good together with the cloudberries we picked! Aaron is off for an indoor night at the cabin, while we shall retire to our tent.

July 21st: Hallingskeid - Flåm (36 km) + hike

We woke up to a cloudy morning - which is probably why I was warm enough last night! I had been a bit concerned about another chilly night at high altitude...

After some oatmeal & tea by the river, we repacked and chatted with the cabin host while Aaron did his cleaning duties. We reckoned that we had time for a short walk, so we headed up the hill behind the cabin. Although we managed to follow the cairns and red “T” marks for a little hile, but we eventually lost the path. We found our way up to a small ridge with a view and then found a great patch of cloudberries, so we counted the hike as a success nonetheless!

Mmm cloudberries!

Nice morning for a hike

After the hike, we switched to cycling mode. The first part of the trail had a few short rough patches, but mostly led us down to the lake on reasonable gravel. The lake was beautiful, and the bridge at the end (from 1906 and still used by the railroad) is a beautiful stone creation (with local stones which were dragged across the lake in winter). The descent after the bridge is a bit rough, but walking gave me a chance to enjoy the waterfalls!

We really had a downhill day - losing about 1000 m of altitude - so it’s no surprise that there were several steep sections. Before Myrdal, we stopped near the Flåm track for lunch - and got a visit from a passing train. The Flåm trains have two locomotives (front and back) and it seems like they are both needed up the steep climb! After the turnoff to Myrdal, there was a steep sequence of hairpin turns. It was really hard on my left wrist (which has some symptoms of carpal tunnel and would prefer not to hold the brakes that hard for that long).

I liked the sign...

The Flåm train

The descent was beautiful, though, and the continuation down the valley was a breeze. We turned off the main path a bit early in order to reach the hostel, which is a set of old repurposed farm houses (some beautiful old buildings!). We then made a trip into “town” to return Aaron’s bike and buy a few groceries. Cooking indoors was also a little treat and we made good use of the “goat feta” I bought during our descent through the valley. It’s a perfect evening for sitting outside, reading, and eating some fresh berries for dessert.